Tuesday, 4 August 2015

Our last glimpse of Italy - the Firenze train station



“Adventure is a path. Real adventure – self-determined, self-motivated, often risky – forces you to have firsthand encounters with the world. The world the way it is, not the way you imagine it. Your body will collide with the earth and you will bear witness. In this way you will be compelled to grapple with the limitless kindness and bottomless cruelty of humankind – and perhaps realize that you yourself are capable of both. This will change you. Nothing will ever again be black-and-white.” – Mark Jenkins

The next morning Jesse and Martin drove us to the train station in Firenze (Florence). It is nice to say that we were in Florence but, in truth, we only saw the train station. Parking was impossible and Jesse parked illegally so that we could unload the luggage. Because of that it was a hurried good-bye, hugs all around, and I admit to being a bit teary. These two were such wonderful, interesting, and engaged world-gypsies. Such lovely human beings. I wish them all the good fortune that could possibly come their way.

We were swept into the huge train station and sought a corner hopefully away from most of the hub-bub. With nowhere to sit for the next three hours we moved our suitcases into a small area in front of a billboard and sat on our suitcases. The air was stifling and hot and the noise constant and loud. Nothing to do but stare out at the world around us, fanning ourselves uselessly as our clothes began to adhere damply to our bodies.

I love to people-watch – and the train station in Firenze for a people-watcher is a great delight. So many odd people, so many stories – you get to reflect on what their lives may be like, where they are travelling to, and why. Firenze is an extremely busy train station with as many as fifteen tracks with local and regional trains coming and going constantly. There are places to buy tickets, and other places to validate tickets, and other places where I am not completely sure what to do – and the locals seemed as equally confused as myself.

There are gypsies begging for a Euro or two, and other more devout beggars with heads bowed and hands folded in prayer, their empty coffee cup placed discretely in front of them for change. There was one old gentleman who looked shabby and unkempt, his straggled and snarled hair pulled back in a pony tail, his shirt buttoned awry such that it hung out of his drooping trousers. He shuffled in beat up runners around and around the parameter of the station, each lap completed with a concentrated gaze that never wavered. He never once asked for money nor had any cup or sign. Perhaps he was just an old poor man who found that station a weather-protected place to walk.

I saw, too, very wealthy people, laden with designer shopping bags – all very large but light as each just contained one pricey scarf, or a small bottle of perfume – with their small dogs perambulating behind them. They moved from ticket kiosk, to validation machine, to cappuccino shop, to the toilets, back to the cappuccino shop, into the line ups for the train, and finally boarding the train – the little dogs boarding confidently and sedately.

I saw a tall, lanky bald man. He wore a bright yellow silk shirt, purple suspenders, lavender pants. His reddish suit jacket he carried over his shoulder. His voluminous scarf was paisley, his glasses vividly red-framed. He wore sandal on bare, hairy feet and his pants were a good three inches too short (perhaps he really didn’t need the suspenders). He carried a very conservative, obviously hand-made leather briefcase from which protruded several files. He caused not so much as a second glance.

I saw an East Indian family, with six children, laden with beach-going paraphernalia  - buckets and spades, picnic hamper, and a large beach umbrella that kept falling to the floor and swung unnervingly near my head. They spoke in loud, rapid, staccato Italian; the mother wore a gorgeous turmeric-coloured sari; the teenaged girl wore large cross-shaped earrings. One of the boys carried a small poodle in one hand and played games on his cell-phone in the other.


I was too nervous to take photos, it would have been difficult to take shots discretely where we were sitting. I don’t think I will ever have the nerve to be a street photographer. Instead I wrote little notes about the people I saw and hope that you can picture them.

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